Monday, January 14, 2013

CHINA


We left Bangkok at a very early hour, leaving our large suitcases in Boudy’s apartment and traveling with just carry-on luggage.  We caught the train to the airport and headed off to Shanghai.   

We landed at Terminal One, picked up our baggage and walked over to Terminal Two to meet up with the rest of the group that was flying in from LA.  The Shanghai Airport is as impressive as the airport in Bangkok. So new, huge, modern and busy.

Shanghai airport
It was a little intimidating trying to make sure we were waiting in the right place and we were looking for the A.C.T. (Adult Customized Tours, our tour company) local Chinese guide without success.  However, the Chinese we asked at the airport said we were in fact waiting at the correct location.

Finally we saw Dana Adkins, our friend from Palm Springs and the A.C.T. tour guide for this China trip, coming through the baggage area with the rest of the group and our tour of China began. 

We got on the buses to our hotel in Shanghai and it was lovely. We met our Chinese guides who were: national guide “Sheila,” who was with us for the whole tour and “Annie” who was our local Shanghai guide. 

Dana, our friend was the A.C.T. rep. (who accompanied the group from the USA) and made sure everything ran smoothly and tried to keep everyone happy. Not such an easy job unless you like herding cats and children in kindergarten!

Shanghai has grown amazingly in the last 20 years and nowhere is that more noticeable than looking across the Huangpu River from the Bund area. 

The Bund area refers to a waterfront area primarily in front of the original colonial settlement on the Western Bank.  The high rises you see on the Eastern Bank did not exist 20 years ago and now it looks like a big city that has been there for years.  Truly impressive and scary!

Colonial side of the Huangpu River

Looking over to the "new" side of the river - none of the buildings existed 20 years ago


Wall of flowers on the bund.  Plants are in their pots and slotted into holes on the wall.  Very clever.



The original skyscraper - called "The Pearl"



The speed of the construction is called “China time” which means that one floor is finished on a high rise every five days.  They achieve this by working 24/7. Most of the infrastructure, new buildings and state-of-the-art transportation have happened in the last 20 years.  It is very impressive how far and how fast their country has progressed.

Our local guide in Shanghai – “Annie” – was the best local guide we had throughout our entire China trip.   She had taken the time to learn English with very little accent which made her very easy to understand and she used some American slang and colloquialisms she had learned from previous tours.  She even told us a joke learned from a previous client, which was very funny. 

Our local Shanghai guide - Annie

She was very proud of her country and what it had achieved but a little nervous of how the cost of everything was going up.  She shared that in the three years since she went back to work, the cost of her cleaning woman had gone from 50¢ a day to $3.50! This still sounds reasonable to us but is an amazing rise over a short period of time. 

She also shared with us about how difficult it is for Chinese people to travel outside China, particularly to Western countries.  In order to get a visa to travel, they have to show that they have a job, a mortgage and family in China and put up a $20,000 deposit.  They really want to make sure you are coming back!!! 

Annie is coming to America next year and will visit Seattle, Los Angles, Chicago, New York and Washington, D.C.  Quite a trip, eh?  Her daughter is about ten years old so it will be an educational trip for the entire family.

We were all pretty curious about how the Chinese felt about the restrictions of living under a Communist government – Internet restrictions (we found that some pages we tried to click in Yahoo were not available and there is definitely no access to facebook), the government owns all the land and they can evict at any time, the restrictions on traveling abroad and restrictions on number of children allowed (one child per couple unless both husband and wife are an only child and then they can have two children).  She said that for most people, they don’t care about who is in power.  All they care about is the quality of their lives and the opportunities to do well.  As long as the economy keeps chugging along and they are able to have a comfortable lifestyle, most Chinese are OK with the status quo and their Communist government. 

Annie was born in Mongolia and came down to Shanghai to go to university.  She loved the city as opposed to the rural lifestyle she had come from, met her husband, got married and had her daughter.  She loved her job and meeting tourists from all over the world, although she mainly worked with Americans because they were her preference.  Smart girl, that Annie!

Over the next four days we were taken all over Shanghai and had a day trip to Souzou, capital of the silk route immortalized by Marco Polo and the birthplace of the famed international architect I. M. Pei.  His most notable architectural contributions are the glass structure in front the Louvre and the J. F. Kennedy Library in Boston.

Souzou is also home to the Gardens of Souzou.  The one we visited was the Humble Administrator's Garden that was the largest and has a history of over 500 years.  The intricately carved pavilions and water features throughout the Gardens were beautiful.  It has been designated a World Heritage Site.  
I. M. Pei said they influenced his architectural style and career.






We had a little excitement when we left the gardens because I (Patricia) had to answer natures call and Dana said she would wait for me and we would head back to the bus together.  Everyone else headed back to the bus through the narrow streets that were a maze so, not surprisingly, when Dana and I started back it was pretty obvious that neither of us knew the way. 

We spent about half an hour going back and forth along the old, narrow streets (no-one spoke English) getting more and more concerned that we would be travelling this maze forever.  We finally found a main street and someone who spoke English who directed us in the right direction.  Needless to say the Chinese guides were happy to see us although not sure the tour group was excited to have been kept waiting !

Our next stop was to go to the Grand Canal which is the largest man-made waterway in the world at 1,800 km.  (And, you thought all the biggest of anything was in America!!)   It connects Beijing in the north to Hangzou in the south and was actually started in 506 BC. 

Thousands of Chinese make their homes along the canal-- either on floating barges or homes that sit right on the canal.  The boat we were on to go down the Grand Canal was small and held about 15 people but we got a good up-close-and-personal view of the ancient canal, the houses and some with steps down to the canal where they can wash laundry, dry it outside or grow vegetables in pots.   The homeowners that were outside their homes were very friendly and waved as we passed by. 





Homes along the Grand Canal
 
The ubiquitous laundry


 
YIKES!  Make sure you put the van in forward!

If this guy takes one step backward, he will be in the Grand Canal.  This is his backyard!
Back on the bus and then we went over to the state-owned silk factory.  This factory was founded in 1926 and Annie gave us a complete guide to the lifecycle of the silkworm and how they process the silk.  What is amazing is that the silkworm creates its cocoon out of a single silk thread that is continuous for approximately 3,600 feet.  Obviously, it is important during the process that transferring the cocoon silk thread to skeins keeps the thread unbroken. 

Our guide Annie explaining the life cycle of the silk worm



Silkworms having lunch






Stretching the silk into a duvet

It was a very interesting process and we watched the silkworms at work and decided to buy a silk comforter that we watched them make.  Apparently, because silk is a natural product, you can use it in hot weather and cold weather, it is very light and it doesn’t “clump.”   Can’t wait to try it out. 

Back in Shanghai the next day we went to the French Concession area.  This is an area known as the Paris of the East with tree-lined streets, Tudor mansions, up-scale shops and many boutique bars and cafes.  From 1849 until 1946 this area was actually designated as a foreign area in the middle of Shanghai and it was actually deeded over to the French.  In 1943, during WW II, the French signed over the area to the puppet pro-Japanese government and after the war it was given back to the Chinese. 

French Concession area

Lunch in French Concession
Interestingly enough, the first meeting of the Chinese Communist Party was held in secret in 1921 in a house in the French Concession area.  This was done so that they were protected by being in a “foreign area” and could meet in secrecy without being raided.  We took a tour of the house where Communism started which is now set up as a memorial, with rooms as they were during the original meetings with wax figures, including Mao.  The older generation reveres and respects Mao, however the younger generation is a little less impressed.  It's not advisable however to say anything negative about Mao.

Location of the birth of the Chinese Communist Party in the French Concession
Street cleaners everywhere
After lunch on our own in the French Concession area, we headed with the group to Nanjing Street, a wide pedestrian shopping street.  Even in China you see the ubiquitous McDonalds and Starbucks.

Nanjing Street pedestrian shopping area in Shanghai
I (Jann) don't remember our tour guide Annie telling us not to go with anyone who wants to take you to a "tea party".  So, when everyone was lining up to visit the museum in Shanghai, I decided to go on a walk about and this is my story as told to my friend, Joni.  Joni found it amusing and I can hear her laughing now.  I'm sharing it here, because it did happen and I don't want anyone else to experience the same thing.  Patricia says the whole incident happened because I'm impatient and went off on my own rather than wait for the bathroom line to go down.  I'm still working on my patience level.  Here is my email to Joni:

       To Joni - Today, I got taken by a "tea" scam here in Shanghai!!!!!  Just when you think you're becoming a world traveler you get stung in a sting!  Four young women took me to get an education regarding Chinese tea.  They told me they had made a reservation for the tasting well in advance and it was only done once a year by certain Chinese people.  I started getting a little suspicious when we made a lot of cuts and turns and in an out of buildings making it difficult to remember where you went. 
 All the girls spoke perfect English.  One was 26, one was 24 and two were 19--OR so the story goes.  After tasting delicious tea, I was asked to split the fee by and with the 26-year girl because she had a job and the 19-year old girls were students who had no $.  The 24-year old was taking them all out for dinner that night so she already had a financial commitment in the fabulous foursome.  It was starting to smell like a scam but innocent, unworldly, trusting ME bought it hook, line and sinker.  The 26-year old took me to the ATM machine and also hit the 2000 yuan amount for me and low and behold the tea ceremony COST 2000 yuan--OR approximately $350.00!!!!! I also realize now that the girls took turns talking to me while another one of them "set it all up!"

I was afraid to tell Patricia what happened--knowing full well I was going to get her wrath in addition to be scammed and it was too much for one day.  However, she asked me to withdraw 2,000 yuan from MY account and I can only withdraw $500.00 in any given day so I had to spill the beans.  I already felt stupid enough but in addition I got reamed up one side and down the other!  Did I mention that Patricia had heard that warning by our guides so I must have been taking a nap.  NOT a good day here in Shanghai!!!!  Live and learn--hopefully--ONE DAY!  That's my sad story for today. 

Annie told us that just holding a Starbucks coffee cup is a status symbol because coffee is so expensive – more than in the US. Needless to say, when anyone on the our bought a Starbucks, they gave the cup to Annie to hold!!  In fact the Chinese love to have Western branded products but isn’t it ironic that even with the Western label on the outside, the label on the inside says “Made in China !”   Even then, they pay more for the product. 

That night we took a cruise down the Huangpu River at night to see all the lights along the banks.  Not only were the buildings lit up but the boats on the river were decorated – like a Christmas parade. 




 
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Our tour group.  We were split into two buses, the red bus and the blue bus.  We were on the red bus and had a great group of people to travel with.  We not only spent a lot of time together on the bus but at lunch and dinners we all sat at big round tables with a lazy susan in the center.  Sharing the food and travel allowed us to really get to know a few of our fellow travelers, e.g. Pat and Tom from Minnesota, another Pat (Redmond, WA) and Jan (Agoura, CA) travelling together,  Gerri and Joanne sisters from California, Marion traveling alone from Canada and a whole family from North Carolina.  And, of course we had our friend Dana leading the group which made it a very special experience.  What a difference from our Thailand trip!

Jan and Pat sitting to Jann's left and Pat and Tom sitting to the right, along with others from our tour
At lunch and dinner we were provided with "fire water"   Note the 56% !! (the bottle is almost empty)

Another challenge for our group was finding “western” toilets.  Our guides were very good at knowing just where to stop for a nature call but every once in a while there would just be Chinese toilets – basically a hole in the ground – or there would be just one western style that was designated as handicapped.  Needless to say, we all lined up at the one “handicapped” while the locals looked at us as if we were crazy and they used the many available empty stalls!!  Are we spoiled or what?


We left Shanghai the next day and flew to our next destination, Yichang, a major port on the Yangtze River.  After touring the area by bus and having dinner, we arrived at our boat, the 5-star, MS Century Diamond, for our 5-night cruise down the Yangtze.

We were greeted on the boat by a dragon band.  Our cabin was a good size with a balcony.  With luck, Dana was in the cabin next to us – hello cocktails!!

The welcoming dragon band


Our Ship MS Century Diamond
Dana, sharing her pumello
Our cabin

The first day on the cruise we arrived at the Three Gorges Dam and took a tour of the construction area.  The Three Gorges Dam is the largest hydroelectric dam in the world and there was a lot of controversy when the Chinese Government announced their decision to build it. 

It was first conceived in 1919 but it wasn’t until 1994 that work began.  It was completed in 2009, but not without a lot of resistance.  With the dam being built, over a hundred towns had to be submerged and 1.3 million people were displaced.  Most of these people were the peasant farmers who had lived on their farms for many generations.  Some were relocated to the cities and some moved up the mountains to new homes built by the government in new communities created to deal with the workers on the dam and the new influx of tourists visiting the Three Gorges Dam itself.  It cost about $1 Billion to build and is second to the Aswan Dam in Egypt. 

View of one of the locks that we went through on the Three Gorges Dam

Climb up to the top of the dam - notice the umbrellas !!

Overlooking the locks on a rainy day

Model of the dam and the locks
There is definitely a generational gap in response to this "dam" phenomenon:  the younger people are happy to leave the farms and live in a bigger community with more going on and more opportunities.  The older generation mourn the loss of their ancestral farms and traditions. 

One of the new cities on the riverbank that houses a lot of the workers on the dam and the displaced farmers
An example of the three story homes built along the river to rehouse the displaced farmers

Not only were the farmers relocated but so were the mausoleums from their farms

The actual flooding of the river and reservoir when the dam was complete was accomplished in 30 days!  Amazing when you consider the river rose 300' and the reservoir stretches 405 miles and is 600' in height.  There is no stopping the Chinese when they are on a mission!  I repeat—it's scary! 

Each night on the ship we had a buffet dinner and the food was not bad.  There was a mix of Asian and European so something for everyone.  We had a group on board from Taiwan and a group from Germany so it was an eclectic gathering.

Desert table
Every night the crew would put on some form of entertainment, from a fashion show one night to singing and dancing and everything in between.  Some of them were more talented than others but they could not be faulted for their enthusiasm.  The performers during the day were the chefs, front desk receptionists, housekeepers and waiters so they definitely earned their money working double duty!




One night, Dana, who is a well-known performer in the Palm Springs area, entertained us with a song, followed by another member of our group, Cynthia Davis, who is a jazz singer at a hotel (Ritz Carlton) in Cancun.  Both did a great job.   
Dana singing on the cruise
The scenery as we sailed down the Yangtze was fantastic.  The backdrop of the cliffs, clouds, water and sky made for many Kodak moments.  We had up-close views of the new houses built on the cliff sides and the mausoleums that had been relocated from the valley floor before they flooded the area. 










In some cases entire new cities had been created, looking as if they had been there for decades with new bridges over the newly raised river.   There was one area where a new walkway had been built along the cliff to enable villagers to get around easier. 
Cliff walkway built for villagers



We got off the boat at Wushan to get on another type of watercraft – a sampan.   This allowed us to go up the Small Gorge on the Daning River with its towering cliffs and a narrow river canyon.  This was a fun trip where I even got to drive the boat!   We saw monkeys on the banks and high up on the cliffs you could see “coffin caves.”   These caves dated back over 2000 years and no-one knows how the coffins got into the caves, considering at the time the river was 300’ lower.

Getting on the sampan



Our Sampan guide


New Sampan driver




Coffin cave

As we drove along in the sampan, there were some very entrepreneurial locals who had set up on a small boat and treated us to local songs as we went past.  In fact, our sampan driver was also a singer of traditional Chinese songs so he entertained us as we cruised. 

The next day we stopped at a typical river town, Shibaozhai.  This was a small village that was desperately trying to come to terms with the influx of tourists that were coming to see the Shibao pagoda.  The locals have set up street markets, food stalls and rickshaws to try and capitalize on the people passing through their village, which is now on the tourist path. 


Our group following the red flat !!

Market stall in Shibaozhi




Taxi, Shibaozhai style !!

Shibaozhai Sheraton !!



Doing laundry at the side of the river
Laundry day.  This is REALLY going down to the creek and beating your clothes with a rock!
We got a chance to climb the twelve-story Shibao pagoda that was built in the early 18th century by the Emperor Qianlong.  It is said the further up you go the more likely your dreams will come true.  I went all the way to the top. Unfortunately, Jann wasn’t able to overcome her fear of heights to climb the pagoda as each floor requires trusting a creaky, unstable ladder or steep and uneven stone steps. 

Bridge over to the pagoda

Jann at the pagoda bridge


Figures in the pagoda

Some of the steps going up the pagoda

Stone steps inside the pagoda

Top of the pagoda

Figures in the pagoda




The walking bridge to the pagoda.  Jann did not climb it because she doesn't like closed quarters or heights.

We also learned that in the Chinese calendar, Jann was born in the year of the dog and Pat was born in the year of the ram.  Hence we were drawn to the appropriate statues !!

In the Chinese zodiac, Jann was born in the year of the dog.

In the Chinese zodiac, Patricia was born in the year of the ram or goat.  She prefers ram.

Chinese dog with attitude
Originally this pagoda was 100 ' above the river but with the Three Gorges dam it was threatened to be partially underwater.  The Government made the decision to protect is with a coffer dam and now it is a virtual island connected to the village by a bridge. 



On our final night of the cruise we had an A.C.T. cocktail party and a Captain’s farewell dinner.  Everyone dressed up and Jann and I wore our new Chinese “silk” jackets that we picked up for $10 each at the street market.  With our new wardrobe we actually were in demand with the Taiwanese on board to have their photo taken with us.  Eat your heart out, Angelina!!!

Our tour group Jann and I are fourth and fifth from the right in the first group standing
We got off the cruise at Chongqing (pronounced "chon-chin").  It is the largest city in China with a population of 34 million and geographically is an area the size of the state of Ohio! 

Our first stop was the Great Hall of the People completed in 1954 and is one of China’s largest assembly halls.  Well, with 34 million people you have to have somewhere to meet although the main hall only holds 4000!!   

Adjacent to the Great Hall is the People’s Square which was packed with people practicing Tai Chi and there was also a couple at the back doing the tango.  Everywhere we went, if there was an open area in a park or square, someone was practicing Tai Chi to music, either in a group or individually.

Tai Chai in the People's Square with the tango couple at the back

Great Hall of the People
Our next stop was the Chongqing Zoo where we saw our first pandas.  One thing I didn’t realize was that pandas sleep up in the trees.  You would think they would be a bit big and heavy for sleeping in trees but not so.
Panda up a tree

Panda eating the bamboo

Jann at the Panda exhibit
Tia Chi at the zoo
Zoo sign

Little emperors - Triplets!


Leaving the zoo we headed to the airport, driving through the center of Chongqing which,  just like Shanghai has an amazing construction boom going on—as if 34 million is not enough????

Could the cab be any smaller?

Chongqing under construction.  Thirty-four million and growing!!!!

No dryers sold here, everyone hangs the laundry on the balcony

Main street Chongqing

We flew from Chongqing to Xi'an and went straight to the Diamond International Hotel.  We chose not to go with the group for dinner and stayed in that evening.  This was not a hardship because we had a very nice suite that overlooked a very large roundabout and we had quite a view of Xi'an.  I headed out across the street to get some beer from the liquor store and Jann headed down the street to the nearest market to get milk and something to heat up. 

View from our hotel window

Roundabout outside our hotel

Our hotel suite
Crossing a street in China requires you to take your life in your hands.  In a country that is run with an iron fist, in terms of rules and regulations, these do not extend to anyone driving on the road.  You can be crossing the road at a crosswalk and there is no question of any vehicle stopping.   It is your responsibility to get out of their way, and they could be coming from any direction.  We only tried it once and decided it was way too dangerous.

Next morning we headed to the archeological dig of the Terracotta Army built for the Emperor Qin Shihuang, 2200 years ago.  He was known as the First Emperor because he unified China.  Work began on his tomb in 249 B.C .  When he died in 209 B.C., the army was buried in pits around his tomb. 

Just to get an idea of the size of this place, it is thought that the total burial area is the size of Manhattan.

The original army was built over 38 years so the Emperor would have an army for his afterlife and required 720 thousand builders to complete it!  Unfortunately, after it was completed, it was burned by invading marauders who did their best to destroy everything. 

Luckily they were not completely successful and when The Emperor's army was discovered  by a farmer in 1974, the dig and reconstruction began.  The Chinese Government actually built the museum buildings over the archeological sites and they are still continuing the discovery and reconstruction. 

Currently there are three buildings at the location of the site. The original building houses the dig of the terracotta warriors and then two more buildings about 20 – 25 meters away.  One building houses the horses and chariots and the other building holds a theater with a movie that discussed the history of the "dig", souvenir shop, etc. 

Thousands of life-size terracotta warriors have been unearthed and restored in battle formation.  Each of the figures has different facial features, expressions, clothing, hairstyles and gestures.  

Within the army, there are generals, horsemen, archers, long-bow men and senior officers, as well as horses.  There is so much more army to be unearthed, but a decision has been made to not unearth any more than they already have.  The will finish the restoration of what they have already unearthed and finish the excavation. 




Area where the restoration is taking place

Restoration of the horses

Original horse and chariot
The original wood that was used as the rafters for the caves is petrified and remains in place.  Interestingly, above the warriors are some caves built by farmers in the 1920’s to bury their dead, and these were right above The Emperor's warriors.  Of course, the farmers did not know what was beneath the caves at the time.  The archeologists have left these burial caves intact too.  It's like two finds! 

Original petrified roof rafters and mausoleum from the 1920's left intact

Still in place the original petrified wood rafters

This is such an experience to see in person there are really no words to explain the scope of this "dig".  It is overwhelming.

They have done a great job in maintaining the site, despite all the tourists and all the on-going work.  It is definitely a wonder of the world and a "must see" if you possibly can.

It is hard to appreciate anything as much after the terracotta warriors, but we journeyed on.  Our next stop was a special lunch that consisted of all different kinds of dumplings.  They were really good and who knew you could make dumplings so many ways.

We got back on the bus for our continuing tour to Xi'an and headed to the Wild Goose Pagoda.   The original pagoda was built in 649 A.D. with an additional five stories added in 704 A.D.  An earthquake in 1588 heavily damaged the pagoda and shortened it by three stories.  Although it has been renovated, it is still obviously damaged and, in fact, leans very heavily to the west. 

Wild Goose pagoda

You had to pay to "gong" the bell for your wish!  (Tourist attraction for the Chinese to make $.)

Board to post your wishes and hope they come true.

hitching posts
After the Wild Goose Pagoda we headed to Xi'an city walls for a great view of the city.  

Xi'an city wall

On the Xi'an wall, Jann posing with some models of the terracotta warriors.

That night the rest of the tour went to the Tang Dynasty Show but we decided to have a night in.  It can be very tiring doing all this sightseeing and you really have to pace yourself!!

After breakfast the next day we headed for our flight to Beijing and the Beijing Plaza Hotel. 

Our first experience in the capital city was to head to the old section of Beijing and one of the Hutongs,  which were the original ancient cities that surrounded the Forbidden City. 

The Hutong go back almost 800 years and were actually designed by Genghis Khan after his hordes reduced Beijing to rubble. Today, however, living conditions here are very basic, on narrow and winding lanes.  A one-room family home with a tiny shed-like kitchen, with often no private toilet is the norm.  In fact, there are structures that provide the families with a communal shower and toilets.  However, these homes in the Hutong have been in families for centuries so the current residents are very attached to the area. It's always location, location, location and the Hutong in Beijing is in the middle of the city!

We took a pedicab around the Hutong and finished up at a home where the family provided lunch for the tourists so we could get the real "feel" of living there.  The family lived in the home but invited our tour group into their living room to eat lunch.  The living room just fit the table and chairs for our group and the kitchen where she prepared our meals was about 3’x 4’ with one wok burner.  From that kitchen, the hostess provided the best meal we had had in China – fresh, hot and very tasty.
Picking a pedicab for our transport


Hutong street and view of the neighborhood.

Living in the Hutong district in China.  No conveniences but a close-in location!

Wall decorated with jars

Looks like checkers but is a local game

Checkers type game with no chairs!!

Jann and Dana outside the Hutong house where we had lunch

Lunch in the living room of the Hutong house

We're actually inside their home and this would be their living room.

Kitchen where the multi-course meal was created.  Julia Child would be proud!

Jann in front of the Hutong house.  The red "lanterns" celebrate the 18th Congress meeting.

Mahjong on the street


Just a part of the Hutong.

We talked to the hostess/homeowner after the lunch and she willingly answered questions about life in the Hutong.  Her family had been there for five generations, however they had received a notice from the Government ten months before that they needed to be out in December,  2012. 

The Government is planning on bulldozing a lot of the Hutongs to put up new highrises for the growing population.  When we asked the hostess where she was going (this was November) she said she didn’t know. The Government had not yet made clear what they were offering in terms of relocation or remuneration.  They were not happy to leave and were still waiting to see what would happen.   Her oldest son was at university in Texas and may not even return to China.  We would love to know what happened to this family but of course we had to leave and continue our tour. 

The Hutong was definitely a close community among its residents and not just because of the proximity of the houses.  Neighbors were out on the street playing checkers and mahjong and it was a very vibrant area.

Our next stop was Tiananmen Square.  We happened to be there during a very historic moment in Chinese history.  The 18th National Congress of the Chinese Communist Party was meeting at the Great Hall of the People to peacefully pass the premiership to a new leader. 

Security was very heavy and actually we were lucky to be able to go to the square because it had been closed for a few days prior to our visit.   Originally the Tiananmen Square gate was an entrance to the Forbidden City and the square of today was built in the 17th century.   Surrounding the square, apart from the Great Hall is the National Museum of China, the Mao Zedong Mausoleum and the Monument to the Peoples Heroes. 

The floral displays in the square were obviously enhanced and made to look their absolute best because of the worldwide attention of the 18th National Congress and the dignitaries from all over the country in town.

Soldiers in Tianamen Square

Great Hall of the People where the National Congress was meeting to choose the new congress

Mao Zedong mausoleum

Floral decorations


Jann in Tianamen Square
Unfortunately, the Mao Mausoleum was closed because of security so we did not get to see the mummified remains of Mao (maybe that was a blessing!)  There were a lot of soldiers marching around the square and lots of police but we were still able to walk around Tianamen Sq. without any hassles.

Just a word about our national guide, “Sheila,” who was with us for the entire trip.  She was able to smooth out any tour wrinkles and resolve any issues anyone had on the tour.  She was able to re-arrange some our trips because of weather (snow in Beijing and being able to climb the Great Wall),  closings at Tianamen Square  (security issues) and the energy level of the tour participants.  She did a really great job and we were well taken care of.  She lives in Beijing and was a wealth of information on the country and customs.  One tip she gave us was never to travel on the subway in Beijing – coming from the west we would not be prepared.  It is so crowded she described it as, "Getting on the train as a person and getting off as a painting," because you would be flattened and packed in the trains like sardines.  It's normal for the Chinese but not so much for us!

The next day we headed to the Jade factory where Jann got a really nice pair of Buddha Jade earrings.  We learned a lot about jade and its classifications of Grade A, B or C.

Polishing the jade

Polishing Jann's earrings
All the factories we went to were State owned.  All tours are 'steered' towards these factories and restaurants.  It wasn't initially clear we were being "steered" to what the Chinese government wanted us to see, hear, know and experience but toward the end of the tour it became apparent.  Not that it's a bad thing but just another reason why we would not want to travel throughout China on our own.

Another State-owned factory we visited was the cloisonné factory.  We saw how they create the cloisonné and of course were encouraged to buy!!  We resisted but they do incredible work.  You can also negotiate at all the State-owned stores.

Painting the cloisonne vase

Etching the vases

Cloisonne store attached to the factory.  I don't just like this Chinese cloisonne'--I LOVE IT!

It is ALL so beautiful!  If only I had an empty suitcase!

Can you say Jann wanted one of each?
Our tour the next day was to the Great Wall – one of the greatest wonders of the world.  Originally this 2,000-year old structure ran 5,500 miles across China and can be seen from space.  Some parts of it have now disappeared or are in ruins.  Most of the existing wall today was built in the Ming Dynasty (14th century.)

The week before we got there, Beijing had had a massive snowstorm and if we had arrived then we would not have been able to visit or climb the Great Wall.  Luckily when we arrived it was sunny, but very cold. 

The climb up the wall is very steep and the steps are not uniform, so it is a very difficult climb.  However, we made a goal to get to the top tower and that is what we did.  

I will say that when we were climbing the wall, some of the Chinese tourists doing the same thing spoke English to us and were very friendly and supportive and encouraged us to keep going to the top. 

Great wall

Climbing the steps AND surviving to tell the tale!
If I say it's steep--that's exactly what I mean.  The steps are also uneven.  This climb is treacherous!

As we climb The Great Wall, this is OUR mission to get to this first tower!
Can you see the slope of these steps?  It was STEEP!!!!
At the top of the Great Wall - many layers of clothing because it was freezing.  Members of our tour group.

Jann at the top looking down at where we started.  I did NOT look down because I HATE heights!  I need a drink!

Going down the steep steps.  OMG!  Your quads got a workout!


We climbed to the first tower

Old weapons displayed on the wall

One of the original towers but wall had fallen into ruins
Along the wall we noticed were many small chains with locks and ribbons attached.  Apparently, it is a tradition for lovers to swear their love, loyalty and fidelity by putting a locked chain and key on the wall. 


I think climbing The Great Wall and the terracotta warriors were the unforgettable moments of our China trip.

On the way back to the hotel the bus drove us past the 2008 Beijing Olympic site and the “birds nest” stadium where the opening ceremonies were held. 


Jann LOVES this building known as "The Big Pants!"  What an architectural statement!

That night the tour went to the Peking Opera, which was not anything that remotely interested us.  We again tried to challenge the China traffic but decided that we would just get some food across from the hotel that did not require crossing a street.  We ate at McDonalds!!

Our final day in Beijing, we headed to the Summer Palace.  There has been a palace on this site since the 12th century but the most recent rendition was in the late 19th century by Empress Dowager Ci'xi (also known as the Dragon Lady.) 

The Empress (originally a concubine) supposedly diverted monies that had been put aside for the Chinese Navy into restoration of the Summer Palace so that she would have a resort to spend the rest of her life.  In 1994, it was opened to the public. 

Entrance to the summer palace




Detail of design on the overhead




Lake at the summer palace


The Empress conducted state business here and it is a beautiful setting with a huge lake, pavilions and towers on 3,000 acres.  The decoration on the buildings was very ornate.

While we were exploring the palace, we heard singing coming from up on a hill.  The guide said we should all go up there so we headed that way and found a group of around 200 Chinese singing old Chinese pop songs. 

Apparently it was a spontaneous get together and everyone was enjoying it.  The crowd hooked arms with us and we joined the chorus and sang along, even though we had no idea what we were singing.  So much fun and they were so welcoming and happy to have us join them.





On the way out of the Summer Palace we passed an older man who was painting Chinese symbols on the concrete with washable paint.  Our guide said he was doing this for practice so he didn’t forget them!   There are over 40 thousand Chinese characters but the average person only knows and uses about 10%.  There is a move afoot to simplify the alphabet which would make sense, but the characters are quite beautiful and artistic so it would be a shame to lose too many of them. 



On our final day in Beijing we were taken to yet another State-owned factory: this one a pearl factory.  We were there quite a long time.  I guess they wanted to make sure everyone got their purchases.  Anyway with the traffic and the time spent at the pearl factory, we reached our final goal, the Forbidden City, a little late. 

The Forbidden City was the Imperial Palace during the Ming Dynasty in the 15th century to the end of the Qing Dynasty.  For 500 years it served as home to the Emperors and the ceremonial and political center of the Chinese Government. 

After 24 Emperors the palace ceased to be the center of Government with the abdication of the last emperor (see the movie of the same name—The Last Emperor). 

They allowed the last Emperor to stay on in the inner court while the outer court was turned over for public use, the first time the public had been allowed in the Forbidden City.  Currently they are restoring the structures to their pre-1912 state.  There are 980 surviving buildings with 8,886 rooms.  (There are supposed to be 9,999 rooms!) 


The outer court was originally used for ceremonial purposes and the inner court was strictly for the Emperor and his family (and concubines!) 

We walked through the outer court and into the inner court and listened to the guide rabbit on for five minutes when he turned us loose to see the inside.  We just reached the doors when they were closed in our faces.  I was furious, first of all for all the time wasted at the pearl factory and then for the guide wasting our time knowing it was close to closing.   So we were not able to have the full tour of the Forbidden City but what we did see was very impressive and obviously full of history.  We were cautioned about pickpockets who "work" the area within the Forbidden City because the crowds bump into each other looking through small doors and windows and it’s an opportune time to pick your pocket!

Jann loved the detail in the tile work throughout the Forbidden Palace.

Unbelievable detail at the Forbidden City in the roof line of the buildings! The more carved figures the more important the building.

We headed back to the hotel, but first we were stopped at a big market to do any last minute shopping before packing everything and getting ready to leave. 

Next morning the tour left very early for their flight back to LA and we were able to take a more leisurely breakfast and left with another couple in a private van to the airport arranged by Sheila. 

We were so glad that we took the time to take an extended tour of China and we were very impressed with what we saw.  The history of the country versus the growth explosion that has happened in the last 20 years made for a very educational and interesting visit.  We have a new appreciation for China and the Chinese that we did not expect.

China was an overwhelming and pleasant experience.  We loved it!

Now, back to Bangkok.  


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